Wake up at 7am.
Breakfast.
8:15 a.m. departure for Hebron taxi.
To avoid delays at check-points in the case of those checks with the stamp of entry into Israel are made to sit in the front seats of the van (in fact some of us had preferred not to be Tibro the passport to entry into Israel of course ... This will facilitate any move to places that have an embargo on Israel, but to move within the territory of Israel can give problems ... it is a legal thing they can do great stories ... just hold on long interrogation but nothing more).
the end is not necessary because we can go all the borders with ease (miracles yellow plate).
F. During the journey tells us about the genesis of Zionism as a movement purely political and not religious. Interestingly, in the Zionist ideology of the concepts and vocabulary words lose their Jewish religious and religious content are covered with political ideals. The religious Jews are so often opposed to Zionism, who feel almost blasphemous. This process takes roots from Marxism, and most of the Zionists are in fact the first hour of the social matrix.
On the way we meet the various settlements, watchtowers at intersections, cabins Bedouin shepherds riding on mules.
arrived in Hebron, the driver greets us by giving us an appointment for an hour after apprehensive.
cross the souk and stop knock at a door, but no one answered. As we enter the open door and climb the ladder, however, narrow and shabby.
At some point we have to stop for a patrol of soldiers who were coming down from the roof fully armed. In our view has no particular reaction and once we leave the past undisturbed up to the roof. Our explanation is that there probably would not be dotuto to avoid trouble and ignore us (In the sense that the patrol seemed to be doing a round of scouting in the houses rising from the roofs, but this is something obviously illegal, because the weapons they carry in their arms, no protest, but in front of our faces Western apparently it was better not to risk even that we ask them what they did there).
While we wait for fall, let us look at the "rooms": mattress and some remnants of worn carpet ... All of a truly extreme poverty ...
On the roof, F. explains some places around us: the settlements on the upper floors of some houses, the school occupied, the roads reserved for settlers.
go down, a boy sells us the elastic bracelets with beads to represent the Palestinian flag and hearts. All proud of my great work I buy it ... but then in removing the check points I lose ...
Then proceed to the increasingly deserted streets of the souk (the comparison with three years ago - the last time I was in Hebron before this - here the link to the story then - is quite bleak, even then, many activities were closed ... now even more).
meet a dealer who, with book in hand, tells us about the various settlements.
After a check point we come to the building containing the tombs of the Patriarchs: enter the first side and visit the Jewish synagogue, then, from the Muslim side, we enter the mosque.
Both are built on the tombs of the patriarchs Abraham, Sarah and Joseph (the latter is not an object of veneration in what most likely is not the real tomb). Synagogue and mosque are actually part of the same building though with revenue strictly separate and switch between them Occor move from one place to the Israeli blockade (quite severely).
Both have the same view of the tombs from different sides: for prevent violence between the two communities, including this one contact between the two parties is limited by metal grilles and a thick plastic shield.
Outside the synagogue, before entering the mosque, a coffee shop gives us hope that we buy something. Please accept all the coffee and the boys buy a drink. We do not go the way of either Abraham or in part of the archaeological excavations and the walls of David.
In the mosque women should wear a hooded robe. In areas with prayer rugs, we must also take off your shoes.
After the mosque we realize that we are already almost an hour late and we have to run quickly to the bus.
the street, I stop to buy the book on Hebron and company do in S. that contracted with great success for a tunic and a Palestinian keffiyeh.
The massive presence of security forces in Hebron, the encroachments we see and hear tell from all create a climate of silence among us.
In Hebron there is support for peace even as a European TIPH : activist group met by chance on the street, but we can share with her only four words.
TIPH: Temporary International Presence in the City of Hebron
The CPT is more not present (my first contact with Hebron three years ago was through John of CPT).
CPT: Christian Peacmaker Teams.
The modern part of town that we only see the bus is much more alive and vibrant compared to the old town and souk that has dramatically depopulated by now. The Israelis have also settled heavily in the old part: as three years ago, the settlements of Hebron are on the upper floors of the houses and street merchants still require you to install networks to protect themselves from the trash.
1:30 a.m. arrive with a delay of the bus and set off immediately for At-Tuwani .
At-Tuwani On the way to see the tops of the hills a large number of settlements. The landscape becomes increasingly wild and desert. Now not meet the garbage truck on the road, the occasional car, the boys on mules and women with children in hand.
Several times we have to explain to the driver how to reach At-Tuwani even with map in hand ... in the end we decided to call "Fa" to ask her to meet us on the street. Then, fortunately F. remember what was the dirt road leading to the village (the second after the sign for a colony) and the gill.
immediately meet our guests, "Fa" and A., two volunteers of "Operation dove "in the jargon two" doves ".
Operation Where
Operation Dove
The impact of the village is another way. The place is very hot, almost desert all around, the houses are made from walls shabby, and many tents here and there. We were waiting as the guests of honor:
the "international".
Children welcome us with a mixture of enthusiasm and careful not to be intrusive and make us sit on the ground in the farmyard, where the opportunity to put down mats. Next to us there a group of Arab men resting. There was in fact an important meeting of the heads of the villages surrounding it was a historic day for the first time would come to At-Tuwani electricity and running water. While "Fa" and A. Lora starts to tell the experience, two children (one girl and a boy of 5-6 years 9-10) and serve us a delicious meal with freshly baked Arabic bread by hand-pulling or split up, olive oil and Zatar to season, a cup of vegetable soup and a dish of rice cooked in milk.
The whole concluded with a mint tea as good as they had never tasted. Do not bring us anything to drink the tap water is not being used of a well and a daily ration is minimal.
After meeting with two doves
( of which we report here our notes )
we have a chance to talk with a village woman who along with husband (32 years and have been married for 16 years ) has opened a cooperative in which the village women produce small craft items to sell to the few traveler will find that passing by and through the channel of operation dove due to restrictions imposed by Israel, can not sell their products to the circuit fair trade. This woman came to live in At-Tuwani after marrying, but is originally from a coastal city. This will has allowed us to be more open-minded than other women of the village and to be driving in a process of self-empowerment and self-consciousness. We also tells of how her husband's support was essential to open the minds of other husbands and persuade them to let women work for the cooperative.
After the meeting we go to the highest point of the country from which you can see the whole village, the surrounding desert, and several colonies.
Children who are very curious to see us go, they ask us as we hold out her hand to say hello, and then run away back to their asses. Other more make us proud and enterprising company in the top of the hill, many of whom speak good English there pemette to exchange a bit 'of words in joy. To go step on dry and prickly scrub that pierce our tender feet of Europeans, but they are very entertaining E. who is forced to walk without a wheelchair. This brings us to "civic room": a beautiful and shady old tree surrounded by a semicircle of stones on which we camp awaiting the arrival of the chief of the village: a cute little man with the sunburned skin and hands from work routes in the fields, but new jeans and dress shirt.
speaks good English and tells us about his choice of non-violent resistance and pacifism in which he managed to involve, not without great initial difficulties, the leaders of neighboring villages and their populations. We are tired and troubled by these experiences psychologically demanding, but he continues to speak despite the drop in attention. He tells us of varied acts of violence by Israeli
in the village: houses were burned (including its ... was forced to rebuild it hidden inside a tent), destroyed crops and olive trees, children pelted with stones and shots chain in the face and neck. The non-violent response to continue life as normal in his everyday life is not easy between violent abuse and bureaucratic obstacles on the part of military occupation. The surrounding colonies are some "legal" (in the sense of recognition by the Israeli government, but obviously not by the international community) in the "outposts" completely illegal even for the Israeli law. He greets us with a message to take to Italy:
"Tell, do not forget, especially in your life always denied any form of injustice."
(Here the link to an interview with the head of the village during a visit to Rimini.)
While I. goes up the hill to take pictures around the settlements, I start chatting with the group of clowns. They are a group of entertainers for children in difficult situations around the world and this time spend some weeks in At-Tuwani. They are recognizable by the distinctive red nose and some other nice details such as a red bow on his beard. We go down so all the Coach and we put ourselves in the street. Luckily it's late and we decide not to stop in Bethlehem just in those hours there are clashes and some Italian pacifists were arrested. We definitely
instead of going to Jerusalem.
shower, dinner and then back to Sepulcher.
The boys are still there and is entered for them the first opportunity. The Russian
monaco guarding the Tomb does a lot of scripted and you have to be very focused right not to be distracted.
At 21h all out and then visit the Western Wall at night.
died trying to resist to the hotel.
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